Hauling in Autumn

At 4:50am, I turn off Sebasco Road onto Ridge Road and follow Dan Watson’s white Chevy down to Brewer’s Wharf. I’d slept through my alarm–a first in all my time working on boats. “Oh, sure it is,” Dan laughs, as I collect my bibs and hauling jacket.

A week before, Dan put his new boat, the 38-foot Holland, Heavens to Betsy, into the water. It’s a much larger boat than the last I was in with Dan. The cabin can fit a small party and will make hauling through winter weather more manageable. It’s not quite winter, but it’s certainly not summer anymore, either. Frost is falling and above us, the stars and moon have that cold season crispness to them.

We make our way through the dark to the wharf. I sling my backpack and camera bag over my head and follow Dan and Mark Koehling Jr. down the thin ladder to Dan’s dory. “Careful,” Dan says. “I don’t trust the ladder.” It’s dark and calm. After a brief battle with the outboard, we make our way out to Heavens to Betsy. We’re going out hauling.

Maritime historian Helen Rozwadowski writes that the human relationship to the ocean is typically of three dimensions: food, transportation and myth – or culture. People have lived, learned, thought, imagined, traveled and eaten in or around this so-called Phippsburg since the beginning of the Holocene. Increasingly, however, here in Phippsburg, the third dimension, that of myth and culture, takes precedent over that of food and transportation. As the shoreline is bought and parceled for aesthetic or mythic purposes, the prioritization of local food and independent travel falls to the wayside. Maybe it’s funny to think about “myth” in conjunction with contemporary use of Phippsburg’s shoreline. But what is culture but an interwoven series of collectively-believed myths?

The notion of Maine as Vacationland, for example, is a well-constructed and well-funded sort of myth. The term “Vacationland” was first introduced in a 1916 advertisement created by the publicists for Maine Central Railroad. As Maine’s once booming industrial sectors busted, the state turned to tourism for revenue. The ad invited urbanites up the coast to Maine’s treed, northern lakes and wild, salty surf. Here we are, 110 years later. In another century years, what will we look back on? How will our ideas of normative land-use have further shifted? We will be coming full circle and rearranging our priorities toward a once-familiar strata?

I’ve written about Dan before. And you might recognize him from the cover of Phippsburg’s Scuttlebutt. Here are a few photos from our day of hauling to take you off land for a moment.

Perhaps the cleanest, newest motor that I have ever laid eyes on. This was in the predawn hours. There’s a specific way that light falls on water and metal at night that brings me back to all the night shifts I’ve worked on boats. (That I feel at times nostalgic for those night shifts is a good reminder that memory is faulty.)

Sunrise and planning the day’s movements.

A very short steam out to the fishing grounds.

At the right hand side of the photo, you can see a bait needle stored, sharp end down. With every new boat worked on, the first trick is to figure out where and if I fit in the constant movement of people and tasks. Most times I just jump in where I see the first gap. I spent most of this day baiting with pogy, redfish and pig hide, and banding the constant flow of lobster. An element that I love–and miss–about fishing is finding this very rhythm. If you find it, and then divorce yourself from the idea that stopping is any sort of option, the day flows on quite easily.

Mark retying a trap.

A fine October day. Dan to the left, Mark to the right.

Offloading to Small Point Fisheries. Out of sight of the camera were DJ and Jeff.

Collecting the odds and ends of the day, returning to the wharf.

All the good details of the fishing day so often stay out of sight of the camera. The familiar blue Atlas gloves turned inside out to dry.

Dan with some sort of 1000-mile stare starting up. End of day fatigue or new boat ownership tangles?

The end of the day, just past 1pm.





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Special Town Vote on September 17th to include proposed Shoreland Ordinance Change